Mandarin custard genovesi
Hidden inside this cookie ravioli’s citrus-scented polenta shell
lies a vivacious mandarin custard (and jam, if you choose).

These were created in the cradle of all things sweet and Sicilian,
and baking lore says they were conceived by nuns. I would
counter angels gave us these, but no matter the provenance,
prepare for an eyes-closed, closer-to-heaven moment when
you take your first bite.

Combine the flour, polenta, sugar, salt and baking powder in a
wide mixing bowl. Using your fingertips, rub the butter into the dry
ingredients just until the butter lumps are the size of tiny peas and
the flour has taken on a yellowy hue. The mixture should feel like
coarse, gritty almond meal interspersed with teeny buttery lumps.

Lightly combine the egg yolk, egg, cream and mandarin zest in a small
bowl, then add to the buttery flour. Keep mixing with your hands,
lightly squeezing the mixture together to form a soft and moist dough.
Place the dough on a lightly floured surface and knead lightly a few

times. Shape the dough into a fat and flat disc. Wrap it in plastic
wrap and chill in the fridge overnight.

Make the Cold-start thick custard and chill.

To assemble: line a shallow baking tray with cooking oil spray and
a sheet of baking paper. Finish the custard by finely zesting the
remaining mandarin into the custard. Juice both the mandarins,
strain (only if seedy) and reduce (in the microwave or on the stovetop)
until syrupy approximately 20 g (¾ oz). Beat into the custard with
a stiff spatula – this step helps to re-soften the custard.

Reducing the mandarin juice will bring extra zing. It also keeps the custard
thick, for easy assembly of the cookies (see Reduce the juice, page 21).

On a lightly floured surface, cut the disc into eight wedges. Weigh each
wedge to 80 g (2¾ oz), adjusting as needed, then gently knead each
one into a small ball. Chill if your kitchen is very warm.

continued …

Keeps Best eaten on the day

of baking. Keeps for a few days,
chilled in an airtight container.

Makes Around 10 large genovesi.

Takes Start the day before, making the

dough and custard to chill. Then it’s

around 1½ hours to assemble, bake
and cool to eating temperature.
Polenta cookie dough
240 g (8½ oz) plain
(all-purpose) flour
80 g (2¾ oz) fine polenta
70 g (2½ oz) caster
(superfine) sugar
2 g (¹⁄₁₆ oz/¼ teaspoon) fine
sea salt
2 g (¹⁄₁₆ oz/¼ teaspoon) baking
powder
170 g (6 oz) unsalted butter,
cold and sliced thinly
20 g (¾ oz) egg yolk
(from approx. 1 egg)
50 g (1¾ oz) egg
(approx. 1 egg)
50 g/ml (1¾ oz) cream
(35% milkfat)
finely grated zest of 1 mandarin
(reserve juice for filling, below)
cooking oil spray
Mandarin custard filling
1 × large batch Cold-start thick
custard (page 247)
1 mandarin, plus juice from
mandarin reserved from
dough (see above)
30 g (1 oz) thick marmalade
(optional)
To finish
icing (confectioners’) sugar,
fordusting